-Quinn
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Forever ago, I scored this great one bedroom apartment in West Hollywood. It was big, airy, and rent-controlled. I loved the place and lived there for several years and when I moved, I passed it down to Ian who still lives there.
One of the things that made it so great was the sweet vintage O'Keefe and Merritt stove, fresh out of the 50s, all shiny white with a built-in griddle and the cool GRILLEVATOR broiler.
Gaggenau has clearly been studying old-timey classics, as evidenced by the introduction of their new Liftmatic oven. It's retro-meets-Jetsons and the power to amaze your friends and confuse whoever is house-sitting for you.
-steen
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“A woman should never be seen eating or drinking, unless it be lobster, salad and champagne. The only true feminine and becoming viands.”
Lord Byron (1788-1824)
Like Black Sunday, or any other moment of historic gloom, my little devout cohort mourned the loss of our local Red Lobster at Wilshire and La Cienega at the tail end of Beverly Hills' famed Restaurant Row. Now you may ask, why the Lobster? One is that there is a group of us foodies that really love the joint on several levels. Primarily, it is one of the tastier and more dependable chains in existence. There are also the famous Ruben tales that we insist on him telling each time we go. When Ruben was working there as a youth, one afternoon included a butt nekked crack-head passed out in a toilet stall. Did this ever happen at Chasen's? I think not.
So, our options are limited: Monrovia or Lakewood. I choose Lakewood primarily for it's very own take on the Restaurant Row concept. In about a four block span, there are a plethora of chain restaurants back to back, from the sacred (Marie Calendars) to the profane (Hometown Buffet). What sweetened the deal was that our good friend Sherman is also a big fan of the Lobster and graced us with his presence on a trip down south for a Sunday brunch.
Well, Red Lobster doesn't have "brunch" per se. They have seafood for days, and this makes us very very happy indeed.
Olive Garden has those salt licks that they call bread sticks, but the Lobster has cheesy biscuits. At least three unique sources of the "bad" cholesterol eek through their flaky exoskeletons.
Ruben simply dotes on them.
And the requisite fake Caesar salad to go with them. My old roommate and I used to make the most exquisite Caesar salad together, with freshly coddled egg to emulsify the dressing and a liberal amount of coarsely diced anchovies for nerve. It is almost an ongoing surprise to see what passes for one of these things wherever one goes, but Lobster's is just as fine as any. An ultra creamy dressing loaded with Parmesan cheese granules goes quite well with the biscuits.
And there is no tarted up salad that cannot be augmented and improved with black pepper, if you please.
Appetizers! Ruben's delight! As if one's main course was not going to be a jamboree of fried or butter soaked crustaceans, one is often compelled to take it to the next level as the laboratory chefs at the Lobster wish to take us to. Behold, Lobster Pizza...
Barely tastes like lobster, truth be told. But this does not prevent our intrepid Ruben from indulging with the rest of us. I mean, it's REAL lobster, for crissakes!
The sampler platter was almost like a more palatable red-headed stepchild of one of Ruben's favorite RL meals: the Admiral's Feast. It's the all-breaded and deep-fried plate. Think if Gorton's and Mrs. Paul had an illegitimate preemie then this would be it. Praise God for clam strips! No one speaks of HoJo's anymore, and that saddens me.
Sherman ordered one of the more traditional meals that always includes one sorry-ass excuse for a lobster tail. But I usually get one of those combos myself, because they're good. And the paltry lobster bit takes on a new life when submerged in drawn butter - one of the most perfect culinary combinations every devised.
However, Ruben and I opted for mix-and-match shrimp fiestas. You really cannot go wrong with brochettes and scampi. You can go wrong with pasta. Looked good on paper, but not so much in real time. Not as bad as the "sourcini" that my friend Russell has about ten years ago at the Yukon Mining Company, but not that delightful.
Ruben is in hog heaven at all times.
And it is this collective regression back to our most silly, playful selves which is probably the primary reason we go back. Not quite like Ponce de Leon-style, but the Lobster has the most endearing effect on us when we fine dine there. And after three plates of shellfish and butter, I usually find nothing in the world to be wrong.
As we were leaving, the true players were coming. One gentleman, dressed to the nines, as if he just came back from auditioning for a reunion tour of the Time. The Lobster's appeal crosses all socioeconomic and cultural lines, as far as I can see. What I would give for a cheesy biscuit saturated in drawn butter right now.
-Quinn
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I love butter. (Don't we all?) I really and truly do. Perhaps not quite as much as Paula Deen does, and I'm grateful for that, but still... Case in point: I have very fond memories of a terrible trip to Paris. The trip sucked and I spent a lot of time in my shitty hotel room. My so-called friend turned out to be a worthless skank. Meanwhile, back at home, my piece-of-shit brother robbed someone at gunpoint and then got caught by the cops in MY CAR (which he didn't have permission to use), and my trip money went to bailing his sorry ass out of jail. I did mention a fond memory, though, and that was baguettes and the most delicious butter which is what kept me fed and reasonably content for the duration of my stay.
Having said all that, I was truly excited to stumble across a blog post on The Traveler's Lunchbox about making your own cultured butter like they've got over there in France. The description had my mouth watering and I was all over it. I figured that since I've been making bread here and there, my labor deserved to be crowned by magic.
So, I trucked over to Whole Foods to buy the most ridiculously expensive raw cream (the butter would only be as good as what went into it, right?). Because each pint of cream cost $13 (yes, that's THIRTEEN DOLLARS), I decided to halve the original recipe. I just wasn't willing to spend 26 bucks on butter, even if it's the best butter ever.
Well, I got the ingredients home, printed out the recipe and set to work. For some reason, I decided to measure out the cream and I'm glad I did. I purchased a pint bottle labeled as 470 mL. Upon measuring, I found it to contain only 420 mL. I adjusted the rest of the recipe but I was not pleased. In fact, for the first time ever, I contacted a food producer. I emailed them politely and suggested that they might want to check on their packaging operation. The guy that answered was not amused. In fact, he was downright icky to me saying that I was lucky to be able to buy raw cream and did I know what it takes for them to get it into markets, etc.
Please check The Traveler's Lunchbox for the recipe and photos. The butter came together perfectly and I'm pretty happy to be able to say that I made butter. I've got to say, though, that I wasn't blown away. The loving description had me expecting butter beyond compare, like real earth-shattering, life-changing butter. I got butter. It's good, but I don't think any better than any of the higher-end butters I can find around LA. As costly as the cream was, I don't think it's worth the expense either.
Still, I've got butter under my belt (in more ways than one!) and that's pretty cool.
-steen
tags: home-made+butter
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Last night, I was watching an episode of Lidia's Italy on Tivo and was positively inspired by her recipe for Spaghetti with White Clam Sauce. All that beautiful freshly shucked clam meat swimming in a big bowl of its own liquor had me salivating and scheming, planning a trip to the fishmonger. Well, today I got up and drove to two local seafood purveyors, and I was shot down at both. It's Sunday. Not the best day to buy seafood. Neither one had clams. It was time for plan B.I wandered the aisles throwing stuff into my basket determined to dazzle Bob with deliciousness. Seafood pasta was firmly lodged in my mind and I figured I'd wing it and make some shrimp ravioli, though I'd never made ravioli before. I wrapped up shopping with some garlic, a package of wonton wrappers, a pound of lovely head-on shrimp and some ground pork, then headed home to figure it all out.
When I got back, I printed out a couple recipes for tomato sauce and had already pulled out a can of peeled whole tomatoes when I realized that I was completely ignoring the bounty in my backyard. I put everything back in the pantry and headed outside with a basket to collect cherry tomatoes and basil.
Once back in the kitchen, I cleaned everything and made sauce.
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CHERRY TOMATO SAUCE
1 pound cherry tomatoes, halved
1/4 cup olive oil
5 garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
1/8 teaspoon dried crushed red pepper
2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano
Salt and pepper to taste
Preheat oven to 375 degrees.
Combine all ingredients in a glass baking dish. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground pepper. Place dish in oven and cook, stirring occasionally for 45 minutes.
;)
;)
Set sauce aside.
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SUMMER SHRIMP RAVIOLI
1 lb large shrimp, shelled and deveined (I had purchased one pound of head-on large shrimp. Once shelled, they weighed a bit more than 1/2 a pound.)
1/4 lb ground pork
1 dozen basil leaves
Salt and pepper to taste
1 generous tablespoon ricotta cheese
1 package wonton wrappers
1 egg white, beaten
Parmesan cheese (grated) to taste
Place shrimp, pork, basil, and ricotta cheese in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse until pieces of shrimp are no longer identifiable, about 15 pulses. Add ricotta and salt and pepper and pulse again several times to combine. Mixture should resemlbe a chunky paste.
Line two sheet pans with parchment paper and lay out wonton wrappers. Place approximately 1 teaspoon of shrimp mixture in the center of each wrapper. Brush edges of wrapper with beaten egg white and either fold into a triangle or place another wrapper on top. Be sure to completely seal the raviolis, expelling all air pockets.
;)
;)
;)
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add 5-6 raviolis and gently boil for 3-4 minutes. I took one out and cut it open to test for doneness and to guage how long they should cook. I'd recommend you do the same.
Spoon some of the tomato sauce onto the bottom of your plate. Top with ravioli, then with more sauce. Sprinkle with grated parmesan cheese.
Makes approximately 36 ravioli.
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Because I was only cooking for two, I froze half of the uncooked ravioli. Simply lay out the unboiled ravioli on a parchment-lined sheet pan and place in the freezer. Once frozen, stick them into a zip-top bag and store them. To serve, just drop them into boiling water, cook until they are done, then top with sauce.
I can't tell you how well this recipe went over. It was pretty simple, the ravioli were light and fresh tasting, and the sauce was perfect. If you make this, please let me know how it turns out.
The clams only have a momentary reprieve. I'll be hunting them down soon enough!
-steen
tags: shrimp+ravioli, recipes, pasta
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A lot of my day-to-day business involves hours of left-brain monkey work. What I mean is that I sit at the computer editing photos which frees up the other half of my brain for listening to talk radio or audio books. I've listened to every single archived This American Life episode, tons and tons of Fresh Air, a lot of Science Fridays, more Splendid Tables than I could possibly count, and now I'm on to the Good Food library.
I am totally having a "the internet rules!" moment. The fact that we can listen to an entire program's history online is one of the best things ever. I rarely catch any of these programs live on the air, and the fact that I can hear them at 3am if I want to is just frickin super. I'm seriously enjoying Good Food these days with the Market Report (they visit local LA area Farmers Markets each week and talk about what's fresh, interview the farmers and chefs...), the interviews and features, and Jonathan Gold's restaurant reviews. I'm a bit of a J. Gold groupie, so this is really perfect for me.
For those of you that hadn't heard, Mr. Gold who writes the Counter Intelligence column for the LA Weekly recently won the 2007 Pulitzer Prize for criticism which only makes him that much more rad. I don't always pick up the Weekly, and when I do I feel kind of guilty because Gold's articles are really the only part of the rag that I actually read, so hearing him on Good Food clears my conscience and helps me save trees.
His appearance on the June 30th show was really exciting for me because his restaurant pick was not only the second Korean place in a row, but focused on a Korean "sushi" place. I've been regularly dining at one such establishment down the street from my house (Bu San on Western) for several years and I have been eager to branch out to others.
The subject of his review was A-Won, located just a mile or two southeast on Vermont. The restaurant specializes in hwe dup bap which is the same dish I always order at Bu San. What you're ordering is a large bowl of salad topped with raw fish. Served alongside is a red picnic-style ketchup squeeze bottle filled with a sweet/spicy sauce, and a small bowl of rice. You dump in the rice, squeeze on the heat, and mix the whole thing up. In a word, delicious.
On the A-Won menu, it's called something like "raw fish and vegetables", at Bu San it's the "Sashimi Donburi", but they're both similar. Quinn and I drove over to A-Won for lunch a couple days ago and he ordered the hwe dup bap. I had the other specialty suggested by J. Gold, the al bop. "Al" means egg which is obvious once you get a load of the dish, a decent sized bowl of steamed rice covered with tamago (omelette), uni (sea urchin), krab (with a k), and a rainbow of fish eggs.
As Quinn will tell you, he enjoyed his lunch but was a bit put off by the fact that it was largely "rabbit food". I'd have to agree, actually. Though I like salads much more than he does, A-Won's version was ENORMOUS but made up almost entirely of filler. I promised Quinn a visit to Bu San soon for what I feel is superior hwe dup bap. Bu San's version isn't quite as huge, but it's nicely balanced with a good amount of fish, sliced apples, Japanese pickled veg, green onions, smelt eggs, in addition to the lettuce. For my money (and less of it than A-Won charges), Bu San is the place to go.
My lunch, on the other hand, was really tasty. I adore fish eggs and having them all served up together allows one to contrast their subtle flavors. I would probably go here again for this dish.
;)
;)
;)
;)
I'll back up for a moment to say that the restaurant was nice and clean, the wait staff were friendly enough, and the meals were preceeded by miso soup. We were a bit sad to see the palty selection of panchan and we weren't able to deduce if that was because we are white or because it was lunch time. Our check was delivered with a tiny bottle of sweet yogurt drink which was a refreshing finish.
Sometime when I've got money to burn, I'd like to head back to A-Won for one of their sashimi plates. I love Korean sashimi which is served atop a mountain of angel-hair-like strands of daikon radish. We were spying on the chef preparing the biggest plate of (what I think was) halibut sashimi you've ever laid eyes on. The appetizer portion on the menu ran $30, so it's not something I'm going to order willy-nilly.
In conclusion... I owe Quinn Bu San. We'll report back.
-steen
A-Won
913˝ S. Vermont Ave.
Los Angeles
(213) 389-6764
tags: Korean+food, sushi, fish, restaurants
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On one of my trips around the world of food blogs, I encountered an irresistable recipe. Could I really be expected to pass by "Doughnut Soup" without trying it? (Any excuse to drive out to Krispy Kreme...)So, I tried it. I made it. I didn't like it. I think I'm the only one. That's not entirely true. I took it over to my friend's bar and foisted it upon Charlie and Hunter. Hunter liked it, but Charlie was creeped out by the texture. He said it tasted good, tasted just like doughnuts, but he couldn't get past the fact that it was in liquid form.
Me? I just didn't care for it at all. It was really heavy and kind of cloying at the back of my throat. You're supposed to serve it with some espresso, but I don't drink coffee. Perhaps the java helps. I'll never know.
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Moto's Doughnut Soup from Remains of the Day
5 glazed yeast doughnuts
1 c milk
1 c water
powdered sugar
salt
For the stock:
Break 2 doughnuts into small pieces and caramelize in a dry pan.
Add milk and water, bring to simmer.
Remove from heat and steep for 20 min.
Strain.
Puree 3 doughnuts in a blender with enough stock for a cream-like consistency.
Season to taste with salt and sugar, and run through a fine strainer. Serve warm in demitasse cups alongside an espresso.
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I've got to tell you, as this recipe is like "entry level molecular gastronomy"... And coupled with my previous experiences with that genre, maybe I'm just too simple or unsophisticated, but I don't think it's for me. I've never been one to seek out the underlying meaning in songs or the metaphors in books. I am coming to realise that I'm just too literal for any of that stuff. So, world, you can keep your foams and powders and stuff that's supposed to taste like other stuff. I'll stick to real food.
-steen
tags: doughnut+soup, molecular+gastronomy, recipes, food
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The garden is in full swing, and I am determined to make the absolute most of it this year. That means cookbooks have been consulted, recipes have been marked, and preservation has already begun. I know from experience that no matter what I do, I end up with a surplus. So, I'm making a big effort toward reducing waste and I'm starting with pickles. So far, I've picked several cukes and a good amount of cherry tomatoes. I've pickled cucumbers before and, indeed, chose to plant "pickling cucumbers" specifically this year for that very purpose. My Romanian parents pickle green tomatoes every year, but they were never my favorites as they were a little too sour for my taste. But, in scouring my cookbooks for pickling recipes, I came across one for Pickled Green Cherry Tomatoes in the The Prudhomme Family Cookbook. Cherries are the most abundant tomatoes in my garden thanks to several rogue plants that continue to reappear season after season, so I'm giving them a go too.Once more cucumbers ripen, as well as my beans, I'll be making a bunch of different pickle varieties, the following two are just the start.
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Pickled Green Cherry Tomatoes from The Prudhomme Family Cookbook
1 pound small, very green, and unblemished cherry tomatoes, washed thoroughly and stems removed, about 1 quart
8 washed and peeled pearl onions or 8 washed and trimmed bulbs from green onions (each trimmed bulb should be about 1 inch long)
4 fresh unblemished cayenne or jalapeno peppers, washed throroughly, trimmed of stems but not seeded, and cut in half lengthwise
1.5 cups water
1.5 cups white distilled vinegar
Assemble all utensils before starting. You will need a water-bath canner with a rack and lid or a very deep pot with rack and lid; the pot must be deep enough to cover the upright jars (sitting on the rack) with 1 to 2 inches of water and still allow space for brisk boiling once the pan is covered. And you'll need 2 freshly scrubbed pint-size canning jars, metal rings, brand-new self-sealing lids, and a few clean dish towels. Fill the canner or pot with water and bring to a near boil (this takes quite a bit of time!) before beginning to fill the jars with food. Have extra boiling water ready in case you need to add more water to the canner once the jars are in it.
Submerge the clean jars in water and sterilize by boiling as directed by the manufacturer, but for a minimum of 15-20 minutes. Leave jars in the hot water until ready to fill. Wash and boil lids and rings according to the manufacturer's directions.
Trim any bruises, decay, or other imperfections from the tomatoes, onions, and peppers.
Combine the water and vinegar in a 2-quart non-reactive saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat. Add the onions and peppers; boil about 6 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.
Fill each very hot jar with the tomatoes, up to 1 inch from the rims, packing snugly. Using a slotted spoon, place half the peppers and onions from the vinegar mixture into each jar, pressing vegetables down to 1/2 inch from the rims. Return water and vinegar to a boil, then pour liquid over the tomatoes, leaving headspace of 1/2 inch and pushing vegetables down into the liquid. Then, promptly wipe rims well with a clean, damp cloth and place hot lids on top with sealing compound down; screw on metal rings firmly but not too tightly.
Immediately place filled jars upright on the rack in the water bath canner, or deep pot, filled with hot but not boiling water. Arrange jars so they don't touch each other or sides of pot. If necessary, add boiling water around but not on jars to cover jar tops by 1 to 2 inches. Cover pot and bring water to a rolling boil over high heat then boil 35 minutes for pints, 45 minutes for a quart jar.
Immediately remove jars with canning tongs and place upright and at least 2 inches apart on a wooden surface or on folded dish towels to cool at room temperature, away from drafts. Do not cover. Once jars are completely cooled, test for an airtight seal by pressing down center of each lid. Lid should stay down. Label and date jars, then store upright in a cool, dark, and dry room or pantry.
Store at least 48 hours before using. Refrigerate after opening.
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Dutch Lunch Spears, by the Quart from The Joy of Pickling
1.25 pounds 3" pickling cucumbers
3 tbsp plus 2 tsp pickling salt
1 quart plus 3/4 cup water
1 garlic clove
1 small onion, peeled
1 dill head
3/4 cup cider vinegar
1/4 cup sugar
1 tsp mixed pickling spices
Gently wash the cucumbers and remove the blossom ends. Quarter the cucumbers lengthwise and put them into a bowl or crock. Dissolve 3 tbsp salt in 1 quart water, and pour the brine over the cucumbers. Top the cukes with a heavy plate that just fits inside the crock or bowl. Let the cucumbers stand for 8 to 12 hours.
Drain and rinse the cucumbers, then drain them again. Pack the cucumbers, garlic, onion, and dill head into a 1-quart jar.
In a nonreactive saucepan, bring to a boil the 3/4 cup water, the 2 tsp salt, and the vinegar, sugar, and spices, stirring to dissolve te salt and sugar. Pour the hot liquid over the cucumbers. Cap the jar tightly, and let it cool.
Store the jar in the refrigerator for at least 1 week before eating the pickles. Regrigerated, they will keep for several months, at least.
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I'm looking forward to actually tasting these two recipes, and to making a lot more for myself and to share with friends. I've got pages marked in Preserving the Harvest and Small Batch Preserving, too.
Hooray for the bounty!
-steen
**UPDATE** 08 July, 2007
I finally cracked open one of the jars of green cherry tomatoes last night. I got home really late and tired and nuked some leftover pizza for dinner. The pickled tomatoes caught my eye so I brought them out too. They were incredible! I ended up eating almost the entire jar along with my slices. The tomatoes were surprisingly sweet and tender, and everything had a subtle spiciness thanks to the serranos. I am going to be making this one in much bigger batches before the summer is over.
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I love soups, especially thick, creamy ones. This baby was a fridge-cleaner as I was starting to fret about my beautiful produce going to waste. It's a quickie and so tasty, a take on vichyssoise. I used roasted beets because I roasted them as soon as I got home from the farmer's market, though I'm sure you could just cook raw beets along with the cauliflower. I made this soup the other day and, looking back on it, I have to point out what made it special.
A) I purchased gorgeous golden beets at the Hollywood Farmers Market the week before. That's worth noting cuz it means I got up early on a Sunday. Woot!
B) Bob devoured it and he doesn't like beets or cauliflower. He even ate it as leftovers for the next two meals and if there's anything he dislikes more than beets and cauliflower, it's leftovers. Shazam!
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Golden Summer Soup
1 bunch golden beets (peeled, cut into quarters)
2 tbsp olive oil
1 head cauliflower cut into 1-2" pieces
3-4 cloves roasted garlic
2 cups low sodium chicken broth
salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 tbsp crema (or sour cream)
Toss beets with olive oil and salt and pepper to taste. Place beets onto a large sheet of aluminum foil. Fold foil in half and crimp edges. Roast packet of beets at 400 degrees for about 1 hour. This may be done ahead and kept in fridge for up to a week.
In a large stock pot or dutch oven, combine chicken broth, cauliflower, roasted beets, and garlic. Bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer until cauliflower is tender, about 20 minutes.
Puree soup using immersion blender or in batches in a standard blender. Season with salt and pepper. Garnish with crema.
Can be served hot, room temp, or chilled. Seeing how it's summer and all... Chilled is awfully nice!
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-steen
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I like to tease Big Jonny about how I can get a really awesome schitzel with country potatoes that would feed an Ethiopian family of 7 for at LEAST a week. He keeps commenting about it, and I keep linking to the pics Steen made while she was here.
Last night I texted Sara about her wishes for dinner. Her reply? "Something greasy."
Off to the store I joyously skipped, thinking of grease, pork and fries. And beer, or course.
Making schnitzel is easy, fast and it tastes damn good. First the ingredients.
Pork, chicken, veal or turkey tenders
2 egg yolks per schnitzel
Flour
Breadcrumbs
Vegetable oil (I prefer sunflower, but use whatcha got.)
Beer.
First pound the meat as flat as you can. In vienna, they make it (no joke...) wafer-thin. So thin, it could be used as paper. But pound it till its as thick as your pinkie or so. Then dust it well with flour. This helps the yolk stick.
Next heat up the pan with a generous bit of oil. Youre frying these babies. We want grease, people. When it is sufficiently hot, dunk the meat in the yolk, covering it well, then into the breadcrumbs. The more evenly covered the better, but don't get your knickers in a twist if it's not. Also, your fingers will be well-covered in the yolk-breadcrumb goo, so wash liberally. TIP: After yolking and breading, leave them resting on the breadcrumbs. Saves you a bit of hassle, and you want that oil to be really hot, so the crispy outer doesn't fall off.
Fry it till golden brown. You can cut one to see if it's still pink inside, or you can 'go cajun' like me. I prefer a bit more black, that way I know it's well done inside. Don't forget a lemon wedge for drizzling like I did.
Serve with fries or country potatoes, and a nice cold beer. Any leftovers make a great cold sammich for the morning after a long night of drinkin as well.
—Christian
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